Elizabethans reborn

Edward Bond ‘The Third Crisis: Drama and Civilization ’

“The first Elizabethan age ended with the discovery of brave new worlds (and incidentally the joining up of the United Kingdom). We are certainly on the edge of vast new unprecedented worlds, cosmic changes in culture, economy and society (and ironically the possible dissolution of the United Kingdom). But are our new worlds brave, cowardly, explorative or degenerative? It could be said the old Elizabethans plundered the new worlds. Perhaps now we can only plunder ourselves and call it trade."

Explorative! I think we as a new age have pushed the boundaries in all walks of life. I think that as a collective we have the ability to make things that were already here so much more contemporary.
Fashion is proof of that. Trends repeat themselves all the time. The Alexander McQueen collection that took Elizabethan fashion and modernised it but yet when the models walked on the catwalk everyone knew what was trying to be achieved.
I believe Elizabethans were the beginning of some things but we are the rebirth of others. The Elizabethan period saw the reign of a powerful woman that changed politics but also the way fashion trends work. Women, despite their class would do anything to achieve her look. Whether it be lay in the sun till their hair went red or cover their faces in poison. Today we have much better solutions to creating these looks but trends come and go.

We, as a modern society can take anything and make it new. But I feel that whenever we do enhance or make something contemporary that has already happened.. WE NEVER FORGET ITS ORIGIN. It always stays in mind. That is what I have learnt so far from doing this Elizabethan unit. We are learning new techniques and techniques from the Elizabethan Era and we going to create a contemporary version of an Elizabethan look but in the back of my mind I will remember the reason for their methods, the importance of wealth and power and the idea behind the make-up they used.

I feel like a lot of the way we modernise the Elizabethan period is in a circus/ carnival way. I think this comes from the way we view their society and the way they lived. But also because music, colour, dance, acting was such a big part of their lives.

Images that I think best represent the way we have chosen to modernise or trade of ideas from the Elizabethan period.

Colour contouring.

Having done contouring using skin colours I was really excited to use colour matching and experimenting with the colour wheel.

I was the demo student so although I didn't see the demonstration I could feel where she was putting things on my face and how she depicted certain areas... SO RELAXING!

One thing I need to learn is blending... Using contrasting colours means that when you are putting the initial layer on it looks messy and silly. So being able to blend the colours together and make sure they are soft on the face is something I need to work on. 

I loved the use of the paints on the face because they really made it stand out and highlighted certain areas that looked too hidden.

UNDERSTANDING THE FACE! This is such a big part of the course because you have to feel and understand the face to know where you are putting the colours, especially when it comes to contouring.

Demo

Before

After

I found that my orange wasn't as bright as I wanted it to be so I didn't get the desired effect but I found the contouring a little easier the second time round. I just find it so hard to sometimes make the face look symmetrical.

I had fun giving it a go... Practise makes perfect.

Contouring

Contouring is one of those things that looks so easy to create but when you are the one with the brush in your hand it is beyond hard.

I never truly realised how much colour matching and face touching would be involved with contouring but there is a lot.

For this experiment I did my base as usual, however I didn't apply it thick enough so when it came to contouring the skin, the blemishes made it hard. So I need to use more and conceal the skin fully.

So I ended up doing the base twice!

I then used the same colour that I used for my concealer as my highlighter colour, this looked really nice as the skin looked even and not all patchy with colours and I managed to get it symmetrical. I then did my contouring but I didn't make the original colour dark enough so I had to do that twice as well. I wanted to really enhance the cheekbones.

Lastly, I added the blushers. I used a oil based Illamasqua that was really bright so I had to spread that on my hand first so my model didn't look like a clown. The I used a softer pink powder blusher and went over it. Then powdered.

I think for a first attempt it went well. But I just need to practise and as I do it more I can more the colours and the lines more extreme.

My hand at the end of the session... Covered in colour.

Test shoot.

The test shoot...

I was a little nervous about the test shoot because obviously we aren't very far into the course and I was wondering where to get my direction from. But it turned out to be a success, I feel like being self directed was a lot easier, but I had some tips from people about ideas or improvements.

I went with the idea of ENVY... I love the colour green because there are so many beautiful shades and I thought giving the shoot an emotion would make it easier to direct my model. With envy come anger, resentment and passion so I thought these were good motives for poses.

I fiddled with the lighting and one thing I did find very difficult to balance was the fact that the make-up I had chosen was very detailed and I wanted it to stand out and look darker in areas but if I turned down to brightness of the soft box it made the photographs look dull and dirty. So I experimented with turning them up and I got beautiful results with the skin and the cleanliness of the shot but the make-up wasn't as defined.

The design aspect of my make-up was following along the lines of the multi-coloured make-up I did on myself because I thought it was different and exciting. I created a mask effect because I feel like envy is an emotion that a lot of people try to hide or mask, sort of like an alter ego. So the idea of my model being masked by the envy was something I wanted to emphasise.

But here is what came out of my test shoot....

I am really pleased with how the photographs came out.

I LOVE THE CLAWS! From this I am going to develop my ideas and think about darkening the make-up to try and contrast with the brightness of the image. But I just really want to emphasise the claws. I realised after I had done this shoot that my model looked a lot like a mermaid so I am going to look into that more and perhaps develop the hair and experiment with a fishtail plait.

(Pre-shoot image)

ELIZABETHAN THROWBACK!

Today we learnt an Elizabethan skin regime using egg whites and a white paint.

I put a base on Georgie as usual.

I then whisked an egg white and began applying it on top of the base in downward long strokes. I did two layers to make sure it was thick.

I then added the white paint to the mixture and started applying that, I did several layers of this.

As you can see, when it dries it makes the skin incredibly tight and hard to move. The forehead also cracked a little.

Women used this method during the Elizabethan period to make themselves pale. as fair skin was seen as beautiful. However it just shows that women during that period must have had really crusty skin and probably didn't smile very much.

Although I may not use this technique in my final idea I may use the idea of layering a particular texture to give the desired effect.

Cleanse, tone and moisturise

Before

After

Learning how to cleanse, tone and moisturise was fun and something I wasn't properly aware of. But standing behind someone and using both hands and only the mirror for guidance is surprisingly hard. I took a before and after image so I could compare the skin cleanliness. I must remember to use upward motion... I'm sure I will have a lot more practise.

A little bit different...

I realise these aren't the most professional of photographs but I think I have found my speciality. As I said and probably have a thousand times... I LOVE COLOUR!
This is something I do using multi-coloured watercolours, eye shadow and glitter, to create a sort of mask. It is the most fun thing to do but I want to see if I can use it in some other way like contouring... I will have to give it a try...

Illamasqua came to visit!!!!

I was totally inspired by the visit from Illamasqua. I have never found it easy to pick up make-up that I am unsure about and just see what it does. After receiving my kit it was so daunting but an eye shadow can be lipstick or contouring material... My kit is my oyster.

Wallis Simpson- Lobster Dress

The image conveys a surreal but old fashioned moment in time. It makes me thing from a voyeuristic perspective, like I shouldn't be watching her. Because of the colour of her dress it seems so innocent. The image seem slightly blurred and posed to be amateur. Although it is meant to look natural and a moment in time, her pose is very forced. The composition of the image suggests that it is two contrasting ideas. The idea of a well dressed woman in a wedding or posh dress roaming around the forest is a strange concept. Because of the way the trees are layered around her and in front of her she seems lost in the picture. But in other way she stands out. Her expression suggests that she in herself is lost, which is quite prominent. Despite the fact it has undertones of being sinister because of the fact there is women in a strange environment; there is a lot of light shed in the image. Her dress is such a clean white that it appears to reflect light, this could have the connotation of inner light or purity. This image reminds me a lot of Ophelia from Hamlet because of the way she is dressed and presented in such a calm manor, as well as being surrounded by mother nature.

The image does pose the question, what is she looking at?

Having grown up in royalty and undergone several marriages Wallis Simpson appeared to be under a lot of pressure and restrictions. Based on the period of time in which she was alive there would have been an urgency for her to be responsible and grow up therefore I feel this image surpasses that. Although the outdoors and mother nature is taken for granted in our era we still enjoy a day out to take our mind of things. I feel like this image is Simpson letting go of her responsibilities and duties and just being carefree. The contrasting idea that she is looking back but stepping forward suggests that she is between her past and future. Her lobster dress became very iconic and her choice of clothing in the image suggests a frivolous fashion sense, not forgetting that fashion can be fun. It also shows that outrageous fashion had only just begun and there was more to come.

I feel like this image is a question and answer to some people. It questions the idea of why is Wallis Simpson daydreaming in a forest surrounded by vegetation. But also says that despite the constraints of living in the public eye you can still let go. It also puts the lobster dress that she became so famous for in a completely new surrounding. Having been photographed mostly in public places at events or more urban locations, this image contrasts with that by saying you can wear a beautiful dress in a field. This reminds me a lot of the prom dress and trainers trend in which Lily Allen was seen doing because it is taking two opposing ideas and throwing them together.

This image was iconic during the time it was published because it said something about fashion and its ability to do anything with different ideas and I think it is the same about fashion today. More and more ideas are being juxtaposed and it always seems to stick. But this image says something about the hierarchy of royalty and that it was meant to be a certain way and this is different.

Alex Box

Alex Box

Her ideas about make-up are ones that I can relate to. In an interview she said that make-up as in art but with art you either love it or hate it. But the fact that the 'canvas' is already human it is more relatable. I have spent a lot of time on the Illamasqua website looking at the different make-up collections and how each one has a storyline or an idea behind it. I like the idea that art has a point, a reason for existing. As Alex said a living canvas is relatable and easier to create a story with.
I like Alex Box's work because it is really different. For example her collection 'Toxic Nature' combines the look of fakery with naturalism and realism. I love the supernatural element that she adds. The contouring of that face makes the model look like waxwork. The distortion of her face make her seem not real and that fact that it can be created through make-up is really interesting.
The make-up artist has also worked with Rankin who is one of my favourite photographers so I love the work they collaborated on my last project that I completed was all based around the idea of a 'living canvas' and for my final piece I focused on the relationship between artist and canvas and put it on film.
My friend was my model so I had the advantage of already being close but I liked the intimacy that I captured in my photographs. I think this is something similar to what Alex Box creates.

I have always loved colour so that is why her work appeals to me so much. For example this image is full of colour and it mirrors the idea of a coated canvas. It exudes the idea that a canvas can be so full of colour but have no relationship to a person viewing it. Whereas, a person can be so interesting and again tell a story by their facial expressions. I often like a lot of colour when I go out or go to fancy dress parties because it is more exciting so the excess colour and application reminded me of a face painted on myself once and I love that. There is always something I am intrigued about and want to know the story behind it. I think this image also mocks the way make-up is seen. It is over-exaggerated and the lines are messy and it could be outlining the way some people view make-up as an art. It also says there isn't such a thing as too much colour. As I said, I love colour and this includes so many. It isn't a shy image because of the loud colours and strong application it could also be a Alex Box telling new make-up artists or just people that enjoy wearing it to not be afraid of colour or application.

This is the second image that I found interesting from Alex Box's collection. It takes the idea of contouring and over- exaggerates it, much like the previous image. Unlike the last image this make-up seems a lot more sculpted and particular. Her face is very plain but the bold thick lines draw her features out. This image reminds me a lot of a Barbie doll, most girls had one when they were younger and would cut their hair in a bad jagged way and try and apply make-up to the Barbie doll but it always looks messy by the end. This is controlled mess. All of Alex Box's designs tell a story, I could come up with my own interpretation for each one of her images. Re-iterating her idea of taking a woman's natural beauty and enhancing it, this image does just that but on a higher level. Everyone has their experimental stage when they are younger and have that vision of being beautiful. I believe that you should be carry on experimenting the whole way through your life without the fear of trying something new.

Having researched into Alex Box I would say I would wear my make-up design to a David Bowie concert or a meeting with him. He was very famous for his Ziggy Stardust look and it was iconic in the world of music and I feel it was a bold idea and something different which I hope is something I exude.

I would say I have quite a bold and expressive personality. I have spent a lot of my life so far trying to blend in with the crowd and up until recently I realised being different was so much better. I try to stand out. So I am the one who goes to a party with my face painted when there was no request to. Alex Box's designs don't follow beauty or commercial make-up and that's why I love them so much.

Fundamentals of Make-up- Elizabethan Era

This unit will see us looking at the importance of make-up and the foundations of it during the Elizabethan period. We will look at how Elizabeth 1 was an iconic figure and that her style of make-up influenced the Elizabethans. We will also look at how their methods differ from those today.

We will work towards creating a make-up look that is a contemporary version of an Elizabethan look. We will study techniques that were used during that period as well as techniques that are used today such a contouring. There will also be exploration and research into how Elizabeth and her people are interpreted in a modern way.

We will have the chance to combine the skills we have learned about the colour wheel, contouring and basic skin upkeep and application and collaborate it with techniques used in the Elizabethan era.

Throughout the unit our research will be based on Elizabethan images and quotes but also how other people have interpreted the Elizabethan period in a contemporary way, as possible stimuli.

My new babies

My beautiful new make-up kit consisting of MAC, Illamasqua and Screenface.

Induction week masks

Induction Week- We made masks from just paper, pre-printed photographs, string and cotton buds. The mouth is meant to look like it's caged. The fact that not much of the face is revealed makes the mask seem sinister and similar to a Venetian mask. I combined all of the materials to complete a completely new product. This was to give us an idea what it would be like fulfil a brief.

On top of the world, In the palm of my hand

I have chosen this Elizabethan image because of the voluptuousness of the dress and how it is mirrored in her hairstyle. Her dress is very extravagant and yet her hands and her face seem so insignificant in comparison. The dress is full of colour and shouts so many colours and shapes yet her hands are so dainty in this image.
The way Elizabethan women dressed during this period was very symbolic of their power but one element of symbolism that is in this image is the fact that her hand is on top of the world. This suggests that she is a powerful woman or a figure of power.
In the other hand is a rose which completely contrasts with the idea that the world under hand makes her seem powerful. A rose symbolises a delicate woman with an element of fragility.
I believe the reason why women wore big dresses with high collars was to seem bigger. If they could have more physical presence than men than that could be considered having actual power.
Everything is laced with detail and exciting colours and patterns and her head wear makes her seem regal.
Her make-up is very plain except for really rouged cheeks. This is a very feminine feature and stands out against her very pale face. She also has pink lips to enhance her femininity.
Her hair is very similar in style and colour to Elizabeth 1 who was seen as an idol for her style. Most women with money would have tightly curled hair and use chemical to make their hair a ginger colour, just like Elizabeth 1.
This image is a perfect example of the way fashion was depicted during the Elizabethan era and how Elizabeth 1 was an idol to the women. It also gives an idea of how make-up, hair and its importance originated.